Sunday, 17 May 2015

SEE ME, FEEEEL ME, TOUCH ME, HEEEEAL ME.....

Tinno and I are like kids in a lolly shop today, if things go to plan, this will be the day that defines our festival. Last night we went to see Jon Cleary and the Absolute Monster Gentlemen at the House Of Blues. To absolutely nobody's surprise, the played an immaculate two hour set of New Orleans funk and R&B and it dawns on Don L that Cleary never plays a bad show.

We grab some breakfast from the Quarter Master store and plan our attack from the strategy table. Miss Mae, the IOU head housekeeper, greets us like lost family and immediately commandeers our rooms for her roster - she knows there's a nice tip waiting at the end!

Miss Mae - Shocked at the price of fags in Oz, she opines: "I'll come to Australia but I'll bring my own cigarettes!"

The brains trust planning the big decisions  

Quarter Master store - corner store oasis
Tinno and JJ catch a rickshaw to the festival and it's seriously wet as I arrive to the sounds of Tommy Malone - terrific singer once leader of the Subdudes.






Tommy Malone
As he finishes, he apologises for the weather - as if he could do something about it! I stand in front of the Fais Do-Do stage and the rain is horizontal, so strong that performances are suspended. But wait, Warren Storm and his playing partners Willie Tee & Cypress throw caution to the wind and decide to play for the six people silly enough to be standing in the slush and rain - let's face it, if Warren isn't comfortable in a storm then who could be? He was great, looking sharp in white trousers (obviously didn't check the weather forecast!), red shirt and shoes, and of course jet black dyed hair, playing a ripping set of swamp pop with an ever present grin - he appreciated people braving the elements.

Warren Storm


Willie Tee blows hard

Glad he could see the funny side of the deluge!
 Best of all, I turned around to find Prudy and John deliriously splashing away...the moments that make a festival great.

Prudy and John make a splash





Tinno and JJ were in the shelter of the grandstand listening to (apparently) renowned hip-hop mogul/producer Mannie Fresh being interviewed. His anecdotes were very funny; reflecting on his first Japan tour (where he thought he was unknown) he expressed surprise to hear thousands of concertgoers singing all the words to his songs, prompting him to ask "Where's my Money?" - the internet has a lot to answer for when it comes to artist royalties! When asked what would get him to reunite his group Big Tymers (Nah, I haven't heard of 'em either!), he drily retorted: "Some zeros, some commas would be a good start". Funny man.

The rain was now drizzle as Tinno and I stood three rows from the front to watch Ivan Neville's Dumpstaphunk. These guys lay down the heaviest 'fonk' groove going round, but whilst never boring it does bear a certain sameness after about 30 minutes. But we are stayers, and there's a pot of gold awaiting us at the end of the Dumpstaphunk set.




We are now in prime position to see Pete and Roger - THE WHO. This is our JazzFest moment, like Jeff Beck and Robert Plant one after the other in 2011.

2011 archive photo

2011 archive photo

2011 archive photo

There are tens of thousands in attendance, for there is a chance that this could be their last tour. We talk to three mid-teen girls, curious about their attendance - "Dad plays us their records and we're getting to like them" (go Dad!). They ask us what our fave Who songs are and what will they start with - 'Pictures of Lily' is Don L's all-time fave 'Oo song and Tinno reckons they'll start with 'I Can't Explain'.....here's what happened.

The dynamic duo enter with Pino Palladino, Zak Starkey,

Zak is in awe of Pete's playing....

.....Pino is bemused by Roger's playing
Simon Townshend (no, not the dude from Wonderworld!) and three keyboard players and immediately launch into.....'I Can't Explain'!! The teenagers joyously turn around and give us a thumbs up and big grin. For the next two hours, they rip apart a "greatest hits" package of songs (although Pete proffers the truism that they "haven't had many hits but their songs form an immaculate treatise on English 60's and 70's pop culture" - I think he confused more than a few in the crowd!), before closing with a snorting 'Won't Get Fooled Again'. In between, there was 'My Generation', 'I Can See For Miles', songs from 'Tommy' and 'Quadrophenia', 'Who Are You', Pete windmilled incessantly to rapturous applause

Pete winds up the windmill.....ka-chaaaangggg!!











and managed one scissor kick, Roger fluffed some minor notes but nailed all the really big ones as he refused to lower the key of any song, At one point Pete started singing a completely different song to the rest of the band (he was looking at an old set list!) and then drew the band into an unrehearsed 'Pictures Of Lily' (having explained for the uninitiated what the song was about) - the teens turned around again and Don L was flying!! Divine intervention came with 20 minutes to go when the sun broke through the grey clouds - even the Gods were loving it.

Who are you....

....who who, who who










It worked when I swung it at Woodstock!
 
Ah, that's better!

And the Gods were happy
At the end, the stage announcer proclaimed it to be one of the greatest performances he'd witnessed in 27 years at JazzFest, and around New Orleans it was the talk of the town for the duration of the festival and will go down in future years as the show that everyone attended.

When you outlay $58 and you get two hours of The Who in all their pomp, preceded by 11 other stages of acts to choose from, and can eat some of Louisiana's finest cuisine, then it really is a bargain. We're on a high and so dinner is at the Star Steak & Lobster House, a place we vowed never to go to again after 2013. But with 'Mr. New Orleans' at the door and the formidable 'Miss Penny' serving our table (and having the sneaking suspicion that she remembered our prior encounter) we happily devoured our lobster tails (2 for $20!). Making our way home we encounter a Nawlinz wedding party in full swing, umbrellas and white hankies waving, and second line brass band blazing away as they danced down the street in their finery - the pics are awful and rushed, but somehow convey the excitement of the revelry.





GREAT DAY!! What's that? Another windmill? Okey dokey one more for luck......








Let's talk about JazzFest food tomorrow.......




Saturday, 16 May 2015

I'M JUST A-WALKING TO.........

New Orleans once again. Been wondering where Don Legsy's been? Fear not, for I have been in the Big Easy attending JazzFest. Flying via Dallas/Fort Worth is the longer route, but it sure beats the other option (Travel Tip: Avoid at all costs arriving at Miami Airport - it's a disaster zone). It was lovely to have Carrie Sue from the Inn On Ursulines standing on the doorstep proclaiming "we've been waiting for you" - the IOU has become a second home in Nawlinz and it's gratifying to know that they were looking forward to our arrival.

The wonderful Inn On Ursulines
Don Legsy's room next to the hot tuuuuuurb
I've come in a day early so's I can ferret around and get acclimatized, as well as discovering a few new things. The city is jumping, and all things given, it looks pretty good. The musicians and buskers are everywhere, and I watch Bumblebee Transformer, the best street statue I think I've ever seen (and there's some doozies in Madrid!).



Bumblebee getting ready



Awesome - you should see the video!!










A quick visit to the Louisiana Music Factory in Frenchmen Street flagged some new music Don L had to have, and I moseyed around Jackson Square before ducking into Cafe Pontalba for a bowl of gumbo. The cafe is located in Pontalba, the oldest apartment building in the USA and is pleasant, not great (can't try the really good stuff without Tinno).


Frenchmen Street

Jackson Square - tarot readers everywhere

Jackson Square - looks like a cardboard cutout 

First gumbo for the trip - Cafe Pontalba

Pontalba - the oldest apartment building in the USA
A couple of battleships on rotation from Somalia arrive as I stroll through the food section of the French Market; dangerous place for sailors to be let loose I reckon!


The Natchez - sole surviving paddle steamer in Nawlinz


Welcome to the French Market

Not much doubt what the cuisine of choice is




Tinno, Jacuzzi Jen and Rusty finally rock in on Thursday night and we're ready to rumble. John and Prudy, the only people I've ever met from Boise, Idaho hang over the balcony and welcome us back - life's great.

Festival Day One: The artist roster for this year looks a bit light on, but we put such adversity behind us and head out in the yellow school buses to the Fair Grounds Racecourse. The names of students who normally catch the buses are scrawled above the seats, names such as Torrance, Kenya, Laylah, De'Quincy and Johneika....whatever happened to Jack and Jill???




The sky is very threatening, but we've got our $2 ponchos at the ready. I wander up for a look at Brass-A-Holics who are OK; of the nine members only three play brass and I wonder why they chose the name they did.




 'Cocaine' Wayne Toups was up next and he was really good, playing his accordian on a selection of covers that included a truly magnificent version of Van Morrison's 'Tupelo Honey'.




Next came the Magnolia Sisters, and I was so taken with them I watched their whole set. Ann Savoy is described as Cajun music royalty and she and her 'sisters' take the audience on a fabulous Cajun/Creole music history lesson.







I snatch a few songs of Irish singer Hozier and am surprised at how good he is. Great voice, huge sounding band (only drums, bass, keyboards, singers and cello) and he brought the house down with 'Take Me To The Church', effortlessly hitting all the high notes - impressive stuff.

Hozier from afar
The last gasp of the Tedeschi Trucks Band did nothing to change Don L's opinion that they're an over bloated behemoth (9 members) thriving on self indulgent guitar solos. The predominantly heavily tattooed male crowd loved them though (no, Don L is not being judgemental or stereotyping, just because I don't have tats or a penchant for brain dead guitar pyrotechnics!).

And then the audience transformed from sweaty testosterone to a sea of cowgirls and nymphs - I never realised how big, how popular 'Aussie' Keith Urban was in the land of stars and stripes (go figure!). I managed to put up with half of the first verse, amazed that everyone was singing along, before skulking away. Look, he's a fine guitarist, but seriously, his singing is shoddy and the countrypolitan songs are DRIVEL!

Aussie Keith from afar - not far enough for me!


The heavens were about to open up, so we headed for the Jazz Tent (that's how desperate for cover we were). Here we saw Snarky Puppy! Clueless? Me too, and I suspect most of the audience. I thought SP was a 'he' but it turns out it's actually the band name. They delve into jazz/funk/fusion and were really good.

This is what a Snarky Puppy looks like
After 20 minutes of their set, the festival shut down as the heavens erupted like a bad Derek Trucks guitar solo, and we joined the drenched queues for the shuttle bus, ponchos proving totally inadequate in the circumstances. When it rains in Nawlinz, it rains!!

A good first day, not great. Things are about to get interesting though.....