FROM THE BASEMENT TO LONDON

It seems like I've known Suzanne and Rod forever. As proprietors of The Basement Discs (THE best record store on the planet - no discussion necessary, and yes, I've been to Amoeba!) in Melbourne since its inception in the early 90's, and before that at Discurio, they have provided me with much of my life's soundtrack to such an extent that I accept their recommendations unheard.

 So it was an unexpected pleasure early in the year when they wrote expressing a desire to visit London for the first time in over 20 years. Rod is an avid prog rock fan - isn't everybody? - and he had discovered that after a 32 year absence, the mighty KING CRIMSON (quite possibly Rod's very favourite band) were to play in London - and he had tickets!

And so Suzanne and Rod were the next to arrive at Terminal 3 on the 2nd September, and it was great to welcome them. During the course of their stay (split in half by a trip to Paris), music was high on the agenda. But best of all was that they became locals, heading off each day to explore the lesser published delights of London (e.g. Columbia Road Flower Market, Daunt Books, Cecil Sharp House spring readily to mind)

and settling into our home like family, and despite my (very mild) protests, Suzanne even cooked for us (and she's a whiz - even freezing some dishes for us before they left). (Editorial Note: sadly, I have very little in the way of photographs. We were burgled and all Don L's camera equipment was stolen whilst we all slept in the house. Most importantly though, nobody was hurt, and the images of Suzanne and Rod's visit are at least etched in our memories).

There were artists Suzanne also wished to see and we headed out to Guildford, to a tiny pub called The Keep (packed with less than 100 people),

where we saw a memorable concert by young American troubadour Ryley Walker and his band - yes, the very same Ryley who released my choice of Album Of The Year. He was fabulous and is not to be missed (he's touring Oz early in the new year and I understand will do an in-store at Basement Discs - be there!!).

On the Saturday we strolled through Portobello Road market, visiting the two legendary record stores there - Rough Trade and Honest Jon's, nibbled on the local delicacies and scoured the vintage clothing stores - I do believe Suzanne was successful!

Portobello Pizzeria

We enjoyed dinner that evening at The Grove, a gastro pub on Ealing Broadway.

Four nights later was the big event at the Hackney Empire. Rod left several hours earlier to take in everything (Don L had school pick-up!), and the theatre itself was stunning. After watching/listening to Robert Fripp lead his latest KC incarnation (including no less than 3 drummers!) through a 2 hour set of their greatest moments, it's fair to say that Rod was like a kid in a lolly shop, with a smile that would put a Cheshire cat to shame. It was a spectacularly good show.

A visit to the Tate Modern was followed by nibbling our way around Borough Market and procuring delicious 'happy hour' food. Some things just have to be done when visiting London, no matter how often you've been, and afternoon tea at one of the premier locations is a must. Suzanne booked and we strolled down Piccadilly to the renowned Wolseley, London's finest cafe designed in the grand European tradition - it wouldn't be hard for one to get used to this! A bottomless array of finger licking delicacies was eagerly consumed, making dinner that evening somewhat redundant.

What's under the lid?

England is the spiritual  home of pub food, and indeed pubs in general. With their hanging baskets and unusual names, they can be works of art. A leisurely 20 minute stroll from home is the Wheatsheaf, a lovely little pub whose dining room motto borrows from Oscar Wilde - "I can't resist anything except temptation". The food is scrumptious.

OMG - all that for one

How will I possibly eat it?

Of course...knife and fork

The night before the Paris trip, it was off to the Shepherd's Bush O2  for a ring-a-ding dose of Tex-Mex from the mighty Mavericks. The O2 is a standing venue (thank goodness) and the place was rockin'. They really are one of the very best 'feel good' bands on the planet, a 'no brainer' if they're playing near you.

Don Legsy helped out on bass for a few songs

After a week away visiting Jim Morrison's burial place, there were only a couple of nights left before the return to Block Place, and Dulcinea and I wanted to end it memorably for them. Suzanne and Rod, like us, love the music of the incomparable Richard Thompson, who just happened to be in town, touring his new album and playing 'electric' with his band. What better way for our friends to bid adieu than watching one of the globe's premier guitarist/songwriters peel the paint off the walls of the Royal Festival Hall. Now that's puttin' a cherry on top!!

The LegsyBoys have all loved having Suzanne and Rod stay, and too soon it was time for them to go, after all, vinyl doesn't sell itself you know! Don't panic, we all went to Paolo's for dinner and magic tricks on the last night. BUT WAIT....there's a twist. Robert Fripp was obviously pleased with the reception he received after 3 decades away, and has announced another KC European tour next year, starting with 2 shows (the only 2 in the UK!) at Friars Aylesbury (about an hour away)....and the 21st century schizoid men have got tickets to both nights!! So thanks for coming and see you next September Suzanne and Rod!!!!

FAMILY FUN CONTINUES.....

So after an arduous cruise around Scandinavia, Grandma and Papa and sister Sharon and Cheeky Bill arrived late July (i.e. the middle of summer) rugged up like Scott of the Antarctic. First thing to do was visit Kew Gardens, a place I never tire of and that leaves any visitor totally awestruck by its beauty; it really is a lovely place and a perfect way to ease everybody into the helter skelter of London.

Suffering cruise lag on the London Tube

Kew Palace

The Wollemi Pine planted on the Garden's 250th anniversary

Monkey Puzzle

Stone Pine planted in 1846

Giant Victoria Lilies dating back to 1852

The world's oldest pot plant - in the background!

The following day was papa's birthday and Shaz had organised for a family visit to the London Eye where, under leaden skies, we were also joined by Skull and Lois for a spin followed by a very pleasant lunch at All Bar One (you already know this from the Lois and Billy blog). A most pleasant way to while away the hours.

How could one ever tire of that vista!

Sharon and Bill departed for Scotland (obviously, two nights of my cooking was stretching the family friendship!). Some places are worth repeat visits, and so after dropping the kids off at their holiday activities, the folks and I headed up the A40 where we visited the Australian War Cemetery in Harefield (Note: the little cemetery made news recently - even in Australia - as it was vandalised. Fortunately the culprits have been caught and the keys rightfully thrown away!).

From there we continued out to have a stroll around and afternoon tea in beautiful Marlow.

Marlow suspension bridge opened 1832

The cathedral bells pealed the whole time we were there

Great place for afternoon tea

A new day sees us motoring up the M1 to crack the code at Bletchley Park. Having seen and raved about The Imitation Game last Xmas in Melbourne, here was a chance to see the headquarters of Britain's MI6 wartime code breaking unit now immortalised on celluloid (well, DVD) by Benedict Cumberbatch playing the alienated genius Alan Turing (Trivia Point: The Enigma machine in the movie is a real one, not a prop). It's a fascinating place, totally restored to its WWII appearance, and the Enigma story is truly fascinating. Turing, of course, can be credited with  being the pioneer of the modern computer, but the detail behind the whole episode runs far deeper than the film portrays. (Travel Tip: It's only an hour out of London and I fully recommend a visit).

I used to sit behind one of these - did you?

The Enigma machine

The Bombe, built to crack the Enigma code, along with.....

.......the Letchworth Enigma

Genius

Grandma's recovering from a broken ankle and upper arm (no, they're not connected, they were separate incidents) so activities with a lot of walking were off the agenda. Instead, we piled into Concord and dropped into Runnymede, the birthplace of modern democracy where King John signed the Magna Carta in 1215 - exactly 800 years ago!!. 

The Magna Carta Memorial itself was erected in 1957 by the American Bar Association (it forms the basis of the American Constitution).

The open landscape beside the Thames is beautiful,

and on the hill behind the Magna Carta memorial is the Commonwealth Air Forces Memorial, inscribed with the names of 20,456 men and women of Allied Air Forces who lost their live in WWII and have no known grave.

In the open meadow stands a fascinating sculpture called The Jurors, consisting of 12 bronze chairs embossed with images that depict the struggle for freedom and equal rights (e.g. the suffragettes, Australian aborigines, and Harvey Milk); it's thought provoking and now on permanent display.

Grandma doing a haka at Runnymede...

...papa joins in.

From here it was only 20 minutes to Henley-On-Thames. As nobody was up for a quick row on the river we decided instead to have a pleasant lunch at The Angel right on the water's edge before heading back to see the "chip off the old block" smack a few boundaries at Ealing cricket club.

Having passed The Eye test, it was time to test Grandma's vertigo tolerance again and so we came out of London Bridge tube station at the entrance to The Shard. The viewing deck is on the 72nd floor and provides stunning views over London from the top of Europe's tallest building. Don L didn't go up 'cos he had to take the photos from ground level.

Puts it all in perspective

Afterwards, we wandered up to the famous Borough Market where we sampled the delicious produce and pulled up a piece of footpath to eat our lunch. (Tourist Tip: it's a 'must do' when in London, open daily and jammed with fantastic fresh produce stalls).

Ranked 'Top 3' barbers in London by Time Out magazine

Do the maths - expensive bread!

Sidewalk cafe!!

Only way to eat a venison pie

Shaz and Billy Boy arrived back from their Scotland/Liverpool side trip and so the following day we piled into Concord and headed up to the beautiful village of Amersham for lunch.

Whilst there, we witnessed a new British sitcom being filmed called 'Bull' that even involved turning the local toy store into an antique store - it was a very impressive makeover as we had no idea it was a toy shop. (Viewing Alert: Don L managed to catch the first episode of 'Bull' recently, and it's about as funny as a hatful of bums. They should have taken up our offer - we really did - to have a read of the script to see if was, in fact, funny!! Awful.).

Filming at the "antique shop"

Amersham is mentioned in the Domesday Book and the local market dates from 1682. 

Shaz, Bill and I walked up and through the hill of wheat in the middle of town and found the memorial to the Amersham Martyrs, the 7 Protestants who were burned at the stake in 1521 for reading the bible (the inscription reads in part: "seven Protestants, six men and one woman were burned to death at the stake. They died for the principles of religious liberty, for the right to read and interpret the Holy Scriptures and to worship God according to their consciences"). Regrettably, one could ponder that not much as been learnt over the ensuing 500 years!

I wandered lonely.....

Lucky there were no vipers around

It was Shaz and Bill's last night and so, of course, a visit to Paolo's was in order where Stefano held court and dazzled all and sundry with his magic tricks (although Grandma nearly caused ariot when she had a senior moment and forgot which card she'd picked!!!) and a great way to bid them farewell....come back soon, it wasn't long enough!

Buzzy demolishes a bowl of escargot - yum!

The visitors with mine host stefano

The final Sunday was special treat day. Off we all went in our finery for high tea at the legendary The Ritz on Piccadilly (Tourist Tip: if you wish to be puttin' on the Ritz, and you should, then book 6 months ahead!! And boys, the dress code is strictly enforced - collar and tie and jacket, which you may not remove, no jeans and no sneakers). 

Puttin' On The Ritz

Don L, Buzzy and Fortnum & Mason Flamingoes

We all felt like aristocracy, the food was wonderful, the service and ambience everything you'd expect, and it was a marvellous way to wind up grandma and papa's visit with us (Bragging Rights: the LegsyBoys have now been to the two best high teas in the UK with the grandparents!).

Not shy of a photo opportunity this kid!

Bottomless food

Special birthday cake even

Classy!

The last day was spent on the hjgh seas once again, well, a Thames river cruise is just as good!

Tower Of London

Tower Bridge

Enjoying the river cruise (in the foreground!!)

And too soon the bittersweet moment arrived as grandma and papa disappeared into Terminal 3 at Heathrow for the next leg of their journey; phew, it's tough saying goodbye when there's 17,000km separating us. We had a great time, hope you did too. These memories might just convince you to come back, grandma and papa.

We'll meet again......