THE WILD AND WOOLLY WEST COAST...
Time to move on from Killarney, but not before we take in a few sights during the morning.
Great B&B |
Despite being heavily tourist oriented, there are very pretty parts of Killarney, and excellent bakeries.
St Mary's Gothic Cathedral |
Oh dear...lucky they made great cakes! |
A packet of cigarettes shaped floral wreath???? |
We bypass Tralee - good judges have told us not to bother as there are no roses there - and stop in the village known as the Literary Capital Of Ireland, Listowel.
Id like to meet someone called Jet |
Given the country's rich literary history that is some claim, but it is a brilliantly eclectic place and does indeed have a deep literary vein, its favourite son being the playwright John B. Keane.
Struggling to find a decent one! |
After a hearty afternoon tea it's just a short drive to Tarbert where the car ferry across the Shannon River Estuary to Kilrush awaits - and some dirty weather.
Upon reaching Quilty, we encounter the wildest seas and winds we have encountered on our journey; at Spanish Point it's freezing but totally exhilarating.
When we reach one of Ireland's great natural landmarks - the magnificent Cliffs Of Moher towering over 200 metres above the churning ocean - it is closed and there is a tempest approaching 150kph blowing (fortunately onshore).
It's.... |
....a.... |
....bit.... |
....windy.... |
....out.... |
....here!!!! |
Such is the ferocity that Liam is incapable of standing up by himself, Dulcinea hovers 6" off the ground, and Don L is buffeted so violently that he cannot hold the Canon still (well that's my excuse for all the blurred pics!); it's an amazing experience that leaves us breathless and in awe of the power of nature. The Cliffs are a LegsyBoys global highlight.
Our final two nights are spent staying in Lisdoonvarna, County Clare, the home of traditional Irish music (so they say). Our final B&B is terrific and perfectly located.
Superb B&B |
and then 10 minutes to the famous seaside village of Doolin. There's not a car to be seen near the Doolin institution McGann's Pub,
but when we poke our heads in the place is chockers and the craic is full on. In the corner sits local banjo legend Kevin Griffin and Floriane Blancke, a French harpist, who play a series of jigs and reels to much acclaim - this is what Don L has been seeking!
Is this allowed? |
100th anniversary of the Easter rebellion - and independence |
It's also where we find Poulnabrone Dolmen the megalithic portal tomb dating back to 4200 BC, from which over 30 bodies have been discovered.
We refresh at the Hazel Mountain Chocolate Factory (and cafe), who import cocoa beans and manufacture their own delicious chocolate products. It's out of the way and a little treasure.
Pretty good, all things considered |
Our destination is Galway and although we don't have long we just want to get a feel for the city. The appropriately named Shop Street is lined with...and buskers abound.
Who says I can't be funny |
Interesting statistic |
At least Finnegan liked his coffee |
We leave and walk past the wall and window where in 1493 the town mayor James Lynch hung his son for murder - a tad morbid.
There are Spanish links right around the Ireland coast that date back to the days of the Armada , and the Spanish Arch is a well known landmark (albeit rather unremarkable) that was constructed in 1584.
We go back via Ballyvaughan where the local church seems to have added a spire as an afterthought,
and decide to head back to Doolin for our final night and eat in McGann's. The seafood is wonderful (it is a coastal village after all), the Guinness flows freely, Dulcinea enjoys the Irish coffee and Kevin and Floriane have been joined by a local trad vocalist and bodhran player (a drum that is the heartbeat of Irish music), as well as three French folkies who drop in, playing banjo, bodhran and guitar.
After a while we decide to check out the pub across the street - McDermott's as we've been told that there is an excellent piper who sometimes frequents these pubs. To be sure, our luck is in and inside we meet Uilleann Piper Cathal O Crocaigh (Croke) and his sidekick Keith O'Loughlin on banjo, playing to a smaller but no less appreciative - discerning perhaps? - crowd.
Buzzy is fascinated by the pipes and gets an instant lesson from Cathal - nice young man (Educational Note: I highly recommend reading Colin Harper's excellent "The Wheels Of The World: 300 Years Of Irish Uilleann Pipers" which tells you all you ever wanted to know about this amazing instrument). It's a perfect finish to the night.
Friday morning - we started in rain and the drive to Shannon airport is also shrouded in rain. It's been fabulous. Sure it's a little damp, a little grey, but it is blessed with lovely people, breathtaking scenery, and a joyous spirit that is entirely infectious. And the final word is...GREEN! Not for nothing is it called the Emerald Isle, verdant fields in too many shades to count - exquisite.