WEEK 3 - AWE INSPIRING AND AN APPLE ENCORE....

Our wheels touch down and it's time to get the passports out again - we've landed at Pearson International Airport, aka Toronto, Canada. After being admonished by customs officers for not planning a longer stay, it's into our hire car and we're off to the Canada/US border (Travel Note: Enterprise Car Rental were sensational and VG value. They saw our luggage and upgraded us to a brand new Nissan SUV without extra cost. When we returned the car, we ended up at the wrong terminal and they chauffeured us around). We are, of course heading to NIAGARA FALLS. On the way, we drop into the picture postcard hamlet of Niagara-On-The Lake (thanks for the tip JackieBoy) for a stroll and afternoon tea. It's very picturesque on the shoreline of Lake Ontario, although it has to be said it's overplayed the 'quaint' card. Every 2nd store is either an ice cream parlour or crafty-souveniry shop, reminding me of the tourist oriented townships in the Dandenongs. From NOTL it's a 15 minute drive to (Canadian) Niagara Falls; the Rainbow Bridge spans the Niagara River and connects to the US Niagara Falls....confused???

Toronto

Where the Niagara River meets Lake Ontario

Skimming stones on Lake Ontario

Niagara-On-The-Lake theatre

We go straight up Skylon Tower and from 160 metres up the vista of the falls is awesome.

On top of Skylon Tower - Horseshoe Fall below

Horseshoe Falls - Canada

Water flow

Rainbow Bridge, American Falls, Niagara Falls town (US)

Sunset - Horseshoe

Sunset - American

The next day we do the non-negotiables. First, we ride the Maid Of The Mist right into the epicentre of Horseshoe Falls. All and sundry are soaked (regardless of the ponchos provided), laughing uncontrollably, and totally overwhelmed by the spectacle. The raw force of nature is something to behold, and quite breathtaking. This is followed by the Journey Behind The Falls, where we got to literally walk behind and under the falls - and once again get saturated. So close you can almost touch the water, it tops off one of our greatest experiences (period). We've timed the trip for a Friday so that we can witness 1. the falls lit up at night, and 2. the fireworks over the falls - both are sensational. Watching 1/5 of the world's fresh water cascading is totally mesmerising. Whilst the falls themselves are a majestic highlight, the same cannot be said of the surrounds. With 2 casinos (and one across the river), a proliferation of pinball and game parlours, and more take-away food chains than the proverbial stick can be poked at, there is a distinctly seedy feel to the township itself, sad really 'cos Niagara Falls doesn't need any gimmicks - they are natural perfection.

The breakfast menu was an insult!!

 

Maid Of The Mist

 

 

 

The calm before the.....

....falls....

American Falls white water

How close?

American Falls

 

Horseshoe Falls, here we come...

...the aftermath!

A moment never to forget

Gracias!

Can you feel the power?

Behind Horseshoe Falls

At the foot of the falls

  

Windy and a tad wet

There's a boat somewhere in this picture

Two pots of gold at the rainbow's end!

The 'Outback Restaurant' menu - we couldn't resist!!!!!

American Fall at night

Horseshoe Falls at night

 

The Maid Of The Mist in all her glory

 Travel Warning: American Airlines international service from Toronto is CATEGORICALLY the worst service I/we have ever experienced (and I've experienced some spectacularly poor service over the years). Never have I encountered more inept, unhelpful, and (worst of all) uncaring staff; simply deplorable. I'm still awaiting my Customer Service Survey (not holding my breath either!).

Mecca!

Macy's wooden escalators has Buzzy bemused

Retail therapy at the Converse Store

 Touchdown at La Guardia and we've now been to all 3 of New York's airports! Our taxi driver's EFTPOS machine 'breaks down' causing us hassles (Travel Tip: it's an offence for this to happen in NY. You should report it!). They come in 3's - it' 2.30pm as we endeavour to check in to our hotel only to be told (despite documentation to the contrary) that check-in is 4.00pm, not 2. Fortunately, this is the last of our major hiccups. We get some retail therapy and finally check into Courtyard by Marriott on E 35th Street (across the street from Macy's!!). Turns out it's only been open 2 months, the staff can't do enough for us, and it's a totally pleasurable stay (and not expensive!).

Coney Island station

Nathan's Famous

The menu!

Joey Chestnut & Sonya Thomas - pigs of the 1st order!

The beach

The boardwalk - good luck getting under it!

Nice snap Buzzy

We catch the subway to Coney Island, a kind of Luna Park on steroids. Of course, we just have to partake of a hot dog from wf Nathan's Famous, the 'inventor' of this gastronomic delicacy and a NY institution and....it's actually not too bad! We spend the day on the beach - los ninos braving the freezing water - and then try a few games on the boardwalk. I'm also wondering just how The Drifters managed to get Under The Boardwalk when it's barely above ground level - poetic license I guess for what is, after all, pure poetry. It was worth the visit, but Coney Island is a place that only someone like Lou Reed could like. Next we're under the iconic Brooklyn Bridge and the queue to get into Grimaldi's (wf pizza house - the original in the chain) is 200 metres long - I ain't queueing for a pizza so we find alternate fare and then head to Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory where the queue is 300 metres long! Then it's NY's 2nd fantastic FREE experience - a walk across Brooklyn Bridge at sunset, with the Manhattan skyline constantly in view...superb, it's like a cardboard cutout.

Under Brooklyn

Mmmm mmm - nice pic Buzzy

Freedom Tower

Manhattan Bridge

Look hard and you can see the SoL

 

We pop into the National Museum of American Natives which has an interesting special exhibit on music (thanks for the tip Bev). We go through Washington Square Park and walk Bleeker Street and Greenwich Village, including popping into the Magnolia Bakery and Rocco's Pastry Shop; overall though, the area has clearly seen better days. I'm lucky enough to be given a leave pass and I head back to The Bitter End on Bleeker to see ex-pat Israeli guitarist OZ NOY; his twisted blues jams are fabulous and for $15 I've been able to get a feel of what it was like 40-50 years ago.

Link Wray's Danelectro Longhorn!

Redbone - remember them?

Robbie Robertson's Stratocaster

 

Washington Square park

Only in Greenwich Village!

The lads outside The Bitter End

Buzzy helps the FDNY attend a gas leak!

Five Guys - voted best French fries in NY - but she wouldn't take my $100 bill!

Oz Noy at The Bitter End

Bleeker Records - a shell of its former self

Not even I would wear this!

Magnolia Bakery cupcakes

Hangin' at Matt Umanov Guitars

I get up earlier than Dulcinea and los ninos and take the time to see things of primary interest to only me - I do an early morning visit to the Chelsea Hotel (self respecting rats wouldn't stay here, which makes it OK for Sid'n'Nancy and Leonard!), the Beacon Theater and the Brill Building, where I speak to a lady who has worked there for 10 years without knowing the significance of the place. It's also a time for me to visit a certain corner of Central Park; I don't mind admitting there were a few tears welling up as I stood in reflection in Strawberry Fields and next to the Lennon  footpath mosaic. Across the street is the wf Dakota Building (apartments staring from $10 million!) and I dwell outside there for a while too (it's actually of more significance than the memorial).....bit disappointed Yoko didn't come out with some home made French toast! On a foray to SoHo, we pop into the wf and very crowded Katz's Delicatessen where, apart from los ninos devouring the biggest, freshest (and most expensive) pastrami sandwich I've ever laid eyes on, we get to meet Mr Katz himself. He's a thorough gentleman, worldly, speaks fluent Spanish and knows plenty about Australia; it's easy to see why the place is so successful. And, needless to say, the table where Harry & Sally met is highlighted.

Chelsea Hotel has seen better days!

Brill Building - also in need of some TLC

Popping in to know off a few tunes..

Beacon Theater

Strawberry Fields

 

The Dakota

a fateful entrance

Katz's Delicatessen

....packed...

The dunny - like the Tardus!

As magnificent as Central Park is, there's surprisingly little other 'green bits' in Manhattan. That's why The High Line is fantastic. It's a disused railway line that has been converted into an eco-walk and we really enjoy it. We've got a tip (thanks Tinno) to try a Cuban eatery called the Guantanamera restaurant on 8th Avenue. The kids have discovered a liking for Cuban food so it's an easy sell, and what a sensational night we have. The food is magnificent, the mojitos delicious, and the atmosphere electric as we listen to 'Gerardo Contino y sus Habeneros' pump out a heavy Buena vista groove. Buzz is bemused watching a man rolling 6" long Cuban "sandwiches", and it's topped off when John Benitez (renowned Grammy winning jazz bassist) comes over and introduces himself.

Walking The High Line

What's this? A relic of the past!!



Mojito anyone??

Guantanamera Restaurant

Gerardo Contino is....

....hot!!!!

Cuban sandwich maker

The LegsyBoys with John Benitez

We hire a 'sitter' (a lazy $145!) for the last night and Dulcinea and I go (recommended courtesy of Lois & skull - our 'go to' NY authorities) to Balthazar Restaurant. It is quintessential New York - packed to the rafters (still queueing at 11.15pm as we left), loud and brash (the antithesis of 'intimate'), and fabulous food; I even try a New York Sour for the experience and...it's very sour (but nice)!! It's a great way for us to round off the holiday. Our final day is spent on more retail therapy and we meet up at the amazing  Food Court in the Plaza Hotel for our final repast - well done again Lois! Then it's back to the hotel where our jalopy awaits us for one final ride to the airport....and home.

Renovating outside - fabulous inside

 

Plaza Hotel - the sumptuous Food Hall

 

 

 

 

 

Green tea mille crepes - 20 layers!!!

Signature mille crepes - superb

A great experience has been had, and any not-so-good experiences are heavily outweighed by the positives. If the mayor wants just one tip from me tho', it would be simply this - you have a fantastic network of subway stations, so how about taking a leaf out of the great Euro cities and scheduling some trains on a regular basis. For a first visit to The Big Apple I think we've done pretty well; we've seen and done lots. Perhaps one day we'll get to expand on our maiden trip.

But this is left for last. During our first week, I arranged for the girls to go out by themselves (and 6,000 others!). Dulcinea and the Aimee got to be in the audience for the live telecasting of America's Got Talent at the wf Radio City Music Hall. They got to see Mel B, Heidi Klum, Howard Stern, Howie Mandel and host Nick Cannon and have an experience that should guarantee the Aimster some heavy bragging rights at her next few sleepovers! And during our last week, it would have been unthinkable to not see a show in the capital of live theatre. And so the kids' jaws dropped when we arrived (by stealth!) out the front of the Little Schubert Theatre to see 'Potted Potter' (all 7 Harry Potter books in 70 minutes). It was hilarious I have to say - and I haven't read the books and seen only snippets of the films. But the real highlight should have been the front page of the following day's New York Times which should have read: "BUZZY MAKES MAGNIFICENT BROADWAY DEBUT!!!" Yep, he was picked out of the sell-out audience to join the actors on-stage in what turned out to be an hilarious climax. The boy's a natural!!!!!

 

 

 

Buzzy's Broadway debut

 

The final ride!!