THE WORLD'S #1 LANDMARK

It doesn't matter what survey or travel book you reference, one place dominates as the ultimate destination for tourists - the Temples Of Angkor in Cambodia. Indeed, when Lonely Planet surveyed professional travel writers to compile a list of the 500 (!) most desired places, TOA received 36% more votes than the second location. Good reason, therefore, for Buzzy and Don Legsy to venture there to add our weight to the argument.

Travel Tip: You will need a visa and you can actually get it at the airport upon arrival. I think it's preferable to get it online so that you don't have to queue up with a plane load of people and can walk straight through Immigration.

Travel Tip: Despite being in Asia and having their own currency, Cambodians trade in US dollars, and IMPORTANTLY, the notes must be in good condition or they will be rejected (trust me, we know this from experience!).

We are staying at the Victoria Angkor Resort & Spa in Siem Reap (which means "defeat of Siam", it's a fascinating history and worth reading about), a beautiful colonial hotel and the hotel chauffeur picks us up. We notice that there are no tall buildings in Siem Reap, and that is because it is prohibited to build any structure higher than Angkor Wat and it's strictly adhered to (VCAT take note, even impoverished countries actually respect planning laws!). It's an early night for us as we have to be up before the sparrows to catch the sunrise over the main attraction.

It's 4:45am and our private guide (Jet!!) for the next 2 days is waiting for us. (Travel Tip: Book a proper private guide - we used www.angkorguidesam.com and they were fabulous. You can use a tuk tuk driver/guide but bear in mind they are slow and Angkor is MASSIVE, so it's better to be in air conditioned comfort and have ice towels and water waiting for you each time you return to your vehicle.) We have to buy an entry pass, US$62 each and payable in cash only (and as close to exact as possible!) and you must do it in person as it is a photo ID pass.

Buzzy's slightly mangled entry pass

There are 1,000 temples in the complex (don't panic, you only visit between 5 and 10) and you must show your pass each time. (Travel Tip: Keep it in your wallet or a plastic lanyard. I put ours in my pocket and they were almost destroyed by sweat soaked clothing!).

Travel Warning 1: It is ridiculously hot and humid, far more so than anywhere I have ever been, so wear light clothing, good walking shoes (you're walking over sandstone ruins that can be slippery), a hat, suncream and insect repellant. Travel Warning 2: Angkor is a sacred site and respect is paramount. Knees and shoulders MUST be covered, and the number of Western females in particular who ignore the clothing conditions and were turned away was disappointing!

DISCLAIMER: MY PHOTOS FOR THE NEXT TWO DAYS SIMPLY DO NOT DO JUSTICE TO WHAT WE WITNESSED.

We wait in darkness on the edge of the lake (it's dry season but there is still some water) in front of the undisputed daddy of them all, the mighty Angkor Wat, the great temple to the Hindu god Vishnu (this may seem odd given Cambodia is a Buddhist country but S.E. Asia was once one massive Hindu kingdom). You can expect several hundred people to be there, so if you want a good spot be early.

As the sun rises, the magnificent sandstone monument displays itself in all its glory - and it is truly breathtaking, even for a 12 year old. We take it in for a couple of hours (we are coming back tomorrow) before leaving and enjoying the breakfast hamper the hotel has made for us.

Boys Own adventurers

7:00am, the sun is high and there's already a heat haze

Despite being ruins, the temples are mesmerising. First we visit Preah Khan, built in 1151 to honour the king's father. No need to say that it's magnificent, they all are.

When one Buzzy is simply not enough!

Next is one of the three major league highlights, the distinctive pink sandstone Banteay Srei, known as the Lady Temple and dating back to the 10th century. Did I say magnificent, mesmerising, beautiful already? It is glorious, remarkably intact, the sandstone is amazing...and it's dizzyingly hot!

We stop afterwards for a lunch break, and it's a chance to try a local delicacy - fish amok in coconut, it's a very sweet and thick curry and quite palatable, although Buzzy isn't a fan.

Safety conscious

Sugar cane juice pop-up store

There's only one more temple to see today and it's 70km away. That doesn't sound far but on Cambodian roads it takes over an hour to reach the ruins of Beng Mealea. Originally built in a style similar to Angkor Wat, it has in recent times been used for films such as Two Brothers and Indiana Jones. On a more sobering note, it was also the final stronghold of the Pol Pot regime and not only are bullet holes in clear evidence but land mine signage (and therefore land mines!) surrounds the perimeter. It's tricky underfoot (remember the shoe warning!) but fascinating. The stillness and quiet is all consuming, and because it's a fair distance from Siem Reap it doesn't attract as many sightseers which is a bonus. Trust me, it's worth the effort to go.

Tread carefully

It's been a brilliant, exhausting day and we cool down in the hotel billabong when we get back.

The in-house restaurants are fabulous and as an added bonus we get to see a display of traditional Cambodian dancing (it looks to be of Thai origin but it is, in fact, the reverse!).

We've been up for 17 hours, time to rest for our second assault on the Temples Of Angkor.