Saturday 16 May 2015

I'M JUST A-WALKING TO.........

New Orleans once again. Been wondering where Don Legsy's been? Fear not, for I have been in the Big Easy attending JazzFest. Flying via Dallas/Fort Worth is the longer route, but it sure beats the other option (Travel Tip: Avoid at all costs arriving at Miami Airport - it's a disaster zone). It was lovely to have Carrie Sue from the Inn On Ursulines standing on the doorstep proclaiming "we've been waiting for you" - the IOU has become a second home in Nawlinz and it's gratifying to know that they were looking forward to our arrival.

The wonderful Inn On Ursulines
Don Legsy's room next to the hot tuuuuuurb
I've come in a day early so's I can ferret around and get acclimatized, as well as discovering a few new things. The city is jumping, and all things given, it looks pretty good. The musicians and buskers are everywhere, and I watch Bumblebee Transformer, the best street statue I think I've ever seen (and there's some doozies in Madrid!).



Bumblebee getting ready



Awesome - you should see the video!!










A quick visit to the Louisiana Music Factory in Frenchmen Street flagged some new music Don L had to have, and I moseyed around Jackson Square before ducking into Cafe Pontalba for a bowl of gumbo. The cafe is located in Pontalba, the oldest apartment building in the USA and is pleasant, not great (can't try the really good stuff without Tinno).


Frenchmen Street

Jackson Square - tarot readers everywhere

Jackson Square - looks like a cardboard cutout 

First gumbo for the trip - Cafe Pontalba

Pontalba - the oldest apartment building in the USA
A couple of battleships on rotation from Somalia arrive as I stroll through the food section of the French Market; dangerous place for sailors to be let loose I reckon!


The Natchez - sole surviving paddle steamer in Nawlinz


Welcome to the French Market

Not much doubt what the cuisine of choice is




Tinno, Jacuzzi Jen and Rusty finally rock in on Thursday night and we're ready to rumble. John and Prudy, the only people I've ever met from Boise, Idaho hang over the balcony and welcome us back - life's great.

Festival Day One: The artist roster for this year looks a bit light on, but we put such adversity behind us and head out in the yellow school buses to the Fair Grounds Racecourse. The names of students who normally catch the buses are scrawled above the seats, names such as Torrance, Kenya, Laylah, De'Quincy and Johneika....whatever happened to Jack and Jill???




The sky is very threatening, but we've got our $2 ponchos at the ready. I wander up for a look at Brass-A-Holics who are OK; of the nine members only three play brass and I wonder why they chose the name they did.




 'Cocaine' Wayne Toups was up next and he was really good, playing his accordian on a selection of covers that included a truly magnificent version of Van Morrison's 'Tupelo Honey'.




Next came the Magnolia Sisters, and I was so taken with them I watched their whole set. Ann Savoy is described as Cajun music royalty and she and her 'sisters' take the audience on a fabulous Cajun/Creole music history lesson.







I snatch a few songs of Irish singer Hozier and am surprised at how good he is. Great voice, huge sounding band (only drums, bass, keyboards, singers and cello) and he brought the house down with 'Take Me To The Church', effortlessly hitting all the high notes - impressive stuff.

Hozier from afar
The last gasp of the Tedeschi Trucks Band did nothing to change Don L's opinion that they're an over bloated behemoth (9 members) thriving on self indulgent guitar solos. The predominantly heavily tattooed male crowd loved them though (no, Don L is not being judgemental or stereotyping, just because I don't have tats or a penchant for brain dead guitar pyrotechnics!).

And then the audience transformed from sweaty testosterone to a sea of cowgirls and nymphs - I never realised how big, how popular 'Aussie' Keith Urban was in the land of stars and stripes (go figure!). I managed to put up with half of the first verse, amazed that everyone was singing along, before skulking away. Look, he's a fine guitarist, but seriously, his singing is shoddy and the countrypolitan songs are DRIVEL!

Aussie Keith from afar - not far enough for me!


The heavens were about to open up, so we headed for the Jazz Tent (that's how desperate for cover we were). Here we saw Snarky Puppy! Clueless? Me too, and I suspect most of the audience. I thought SP was a 'he' but it turns out it's actually the band name. They delve into jazz/funk/fusion and were really good.

This is what a Snarky Puppy looks like
After 20 minutes of their set, the festival shut down as the heavens erupted like a bad Derek Trucks guitar solo, and we joined the drenched queues for the shuttle bus, ponchos proving totally inadequate in the circumstances. When it rains in Nawlinz, it rains!!

A good first day, not great. Things are about to get interesting though.....

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