OUR LAST VISITOR

The LegsyBoys' earlier than expected departure from Iberia has caused a few  headaches when it comes to visitors. Sister-in-law Nereda had planned to visit us in July en route to the Edinburgh Military Tattoo (I guess she likes drummers!), and thus Nerrie became our last guest at Casa LegsyBoy. From the minute she arrived at Barajas until her departure 10 days later, we gave Madrid - and Barcelona - a good going over.

Can you spot the happy tourist?

Fancy that, it's Nereda...

Tapas in the Casa LegsyBoy sunroom

We eased her into things with a night of family revelry before hitting the tourist trail. The weather was glorious as we strolled past Madrid's famous landmarks - Plaza de Santa Ana, Sol, Plaza Mayor, the Royal Palace and the Mercado de San Miguel.

Spectacular Madrid wall ceramics

Plaza de Santa Ana

Kilometre Zero

Plaza Mayor

 

Mercado de San Miguel

Madrid's Coat Of Arms

Legends Of Flamenco

Nerrie got to experience a Spanish lesson with a difference; we all met Angela (our tutor) at the newly re-opened Museo de Archaelogico and for a couple of hours she explained the museum to us in Spanish before we all retreated to one of Madrid's funkiest eateries - La Gabinoteca - to celebrate. It was great company, great food and great fun.

Angela, Nereda and Team LegsyBoy

The gang

The house specialty

Yep, it comes in a baby food jar!

La Gabinoteca's famous hot dog

 Nereda had 2 wishes, firstly - not too many museums, and secondly, was there any chance of getting to Barcelona for a GAUDI EXPERIENCE. I reluctantly planned around the first and we all excitedly headed off to Barca on the AVE fast train (a mere 330kph!) for a 3 day visit.

Waiting to board the AVE to Barcelona

Atocha (Madrid) Station - simply magnificent

I have to say that Nereda is always great fun to be around, she's such a positive person, but in Barca we struggled to wipe the smile off her face! Our apartment is nice and central, an easy walk to wherever, although looking out from the balcony reminded my somewhat of a Hitchcock movie!

Like an extra in a Hitchcock movie - but which one??

We strolled up La Rambla (as one does) where she got her first glimpse of Gaudi - the 'dark period' Palau Guell.

Outside Palau Guell

Joan Miro footpath art, La Rambla

 We swanned around the fantastic fresh produce market and popped into Escriba,the fabled 190 year old chocolateria and patisserie, for morning tea.

THAT's what I call a cake

Mmmm, mmmm

Check out the price!

Fresh zuma anybody?

Where are we??

We wandered up to Casa Batllo to whet the Gaudi lips before catching the metro to the great man's masterpiece - La Sagrada Familia. The cathedral is a jaw dropping sight as you exit the metro. We didn't go in when we first visited, so this time I'd booked and if it is breathtaking externally then inside is just as spectacular. (TRAVEL TIP: If you wish to go into the cathedral - and you do! -and up one of the towers, it is ESSENTIAL you book online beforehand, otherwise you'll spend all day waiting in a queue). We climbed (in a lift) one of the spires for magnificent views over the city. The man was a genius!

Don't even ask!!

Tribute to Ned Kelly!

 From the cathedral, we strolled down to the beach for dinner al fresco - a perfect day.

Parc Guell overlooks the city and is magnificent. The fact one needs to be a mountain goat to reach (even allowing for escalators to help with the climb) it didn't detract from the experience, and Gaudi's innovative use of ceramic tiles is striking. (TRAVEL TIP: Only 400 people at a time are allowed into the Parc, so once again it is ESSENTIAL to BOOK ONLINE well beforehand. AND - allow plenty of time to get there and take a bottle of water with you!!).

 Nereda's Gaudi experience has been a great success, but we've saved the best for last. We drop her off on the doorstep of Casa Batllo.

Meanwhile, the LegsyBoys head out to Camp Nou to do the Barcelona FC tour. The kids are in their element and have their photo taken with golden boy Messi. The arrival of Fang, aka Luis Suraez, has gripped Barca and his merchandise is everywhere. The tour is good but not in the same class as the Bernabau (Real Madrid) tour.

Home team's race

Waiting to be interviewed

Gun and future gun

Victor Valdes' gloves - WOW!!

 

Painting a thousand words!

 

Superbly merchandised...

...but what an appalling away strip!

We catch up with Nereda and, as expected, she has been left agog at the sheer outrageousness of Casa Batllo, and it is the cream on her Gaudi cake (anybody who visits Barcelona and doesn't go inside is derelict in their duties as a tourist).

 We end the Barca experience with dinner at another iconic location - El Cuatro Gats. A favourite of Picasso, Gaudi, Lautrec, Hemingway, Dali, the LegsyBoys and a veritable 'who's who' of the art and literary world, we enjoy some wonderful Catalan cuisine. Nereda makes a special trip into the Hombre's dunny to marvel at the ceramic walls as the Senora's is plain by comparison (isn't it odd that the male of the species is most often the peacock, so to speak).

 

El Aseo de Hombres - amazing

The Picasso designed menu

Stuffed squid in case you were wondering

It's an easy day trip to the breathtaking city of Toledo, once the capital of Spain. It's straight out of a Moorish picture book and we have a very pleasant lunch and stroll around the old town, checking out the famed Toledo steel merchandise and, of course, the marzapan (Toledo is home to the stuff - not to my taste though).

Back in Madrid we do some more sightseeing, including the spectacular Palacio de Cibeles, and Nereda pops into the Prado for a couple of hours to take in the Goya and Bosch masterpieces.

Palacio de Cibeles

The Prado

Then we head to Streetxo for lunch - Nereda notices the takeaway sign but is dazzled by the culinary delights served up - I think she nearly teared up at one stage (anybody who visits Madrid and doesn't take the Streetxo experience is derelict in their tourist duties).

Michelin takeaway

Explaining what's in bocadillo calamares

Nerrie's canvas - eat your heart out Pro Hart

For her last day we head to beautiful Segovia (Don L's favourite place in Spain). Nereda's been here before 20 years ago, but we manage to give her a different experience and show her a different side of this wonderful city; the aquaduct is, of course, the star of the show once again.

Just look at the sky!!!

The 'seven peaks and dead lady' - can you see them?

 Lacrima came over for Nereda's final night and we had a right old time of it.

Living the Game Of Life

The following morning it was back to Terminal 1 and we bid 'adios' to Nerrie as she headed north to Edinburgh and lots of strange dudes in crazy hats and skirts beating animal skins and playing bagpipes. Hasta luego Nereda, The Last Of The Iberian Visitors, thanks for coming.

MICHELIN MAGIC IN MADRID

You have to book 6 months in advance to get into Madrid's only 3-star Michelin restaurant - Diverxo.

Fortunately, we timed it so that we could experience the city's culinary flagship just before we were due to leave and, accidentally, the last night at it's existing location (with only 10 tables it isn't hard to understand why they have moved up the road to larger premises). apart from the obvious, i.e. food, the essential ingredient for a great night at a restaurant is the company, and Dulcinea and I were very lucky to have Katherine and Joe, surely Ireland's finest exports, come along to share the experience.

I guess by the very nature of the beast, a visit to a high flying Michelin establishment is a guarantee of the richest food imaginable; Diverxo doesn't alter that template. Before getting to the main act, some general observations: the table staff were sensational, attentive, not too officious, and clearly enjoy being part of the show; I have never seen so many chefs (around 20) in one kitchen at the one time (keeping in mind there are only 10 tables), it was as though each was assigned a specific task; the decor was very dark but effective with interesting butterfly motifs and....pigs...;

The ceiling

raucous behaviour has the ability to distract other patrons, and sadly the owner's spouse took it upon herself to be overtly loud (so much so that even the staff admonished her), no doubt 'celebrating' the last night; the table setting of a pig with wings was quirky and hinted at the general theme - and caused a ruckus at evening's end!

Pigs that fly? Perhaps a little pretentious!

And so to the food. We settled on "The Neverland Cuisine - Peter Pan and Wendy" 7 canvas degustation menu (it goes up to 15!). I'm sure you noted the word "canvas"; this is how the staff refer to a course and it soon became apparent that each canvas was indeed meant to be a work of art (some reminded me of the old Pro Hart TV ads). Pretentious? Of course, and one read of chef Dabiz Munoz's fanciful description of his restaurant will attest to that.

A tad over the top??

So what works of art were we served? How's this......
Canvas 1. - "It's showtime. Corn, sour-spicy explosions, umami, sweet and acid". Now if you're thinking that sounds like glorified popcorn then you'd be dead right! Tasty? Sure, but I/we didn't come to the high altar to eat POPCORN!

Canvas 2. - "Iodized - sweet and acid, marine and seawtaer. Pickled sweet & sour chillis, Bufala's buttermilk, truffles and celery".

Canvas 3. - "Vegetal spicy, maximum creaminess".

Canvas 4. - "Asparagus and Riesling stew, the soul of the red shrimp squeezed, with its steamed sons and grandsons".

Canvas 5. - "Galician sea spider and spicy tomato; 'French Tradition' with goat butter, bienmesabe (typical marinated fish from south of Spain) and herbs".

Canvas 6. - "Black garlic and crispy seasoning mullet, creamy forest and roasted dairy, a cherished 10 seconds in the Sichuan wok".

The crispy touch

Mr Hart, Mr Hart!

Canvas 7. - Pigeon passion with homemade Nikkei Miso and Canary steamed potatoes, mojitos as a dressing".
 

Canvas 8. - "Petit suisse and white velvet, jazmin and spicy sweet and sour". Very cleverly done.

Now those who can count will note that there are, in fact, 8 courses, so I guess I'm prepared to give them the benefit of the doubt on the popcorn as a bit of fun. The food was really lovely, spectacularly presented, very very rich, and as usual there was too much of it. It is easy to appreciate how it would all impress the Michelin judges. Was it worth waiting 6 months for? Undoubtedly yes. The best in Madrid? Probably not, as far as Don and Dulcinea are concerned that honour rests with Terraza Del Casino (the only Michelin eatery we have paid repeat visits to), and perhaps also the trufflefest at Santceloni. Somewhat ironically, Don L's most enjoyable venue is Diverxo's takeaway gourmet food bar Streetxo; no fuss, brilliant food and great fun.

The flying pig? Given it was the restaurant's final night, Dulcinea entered into negotiations to procure one. It didn't end well, particularly the unnecessarily rude behaviour of Senor Munoz (matched only by the boorish behaviour of his wife during the evening).

Not For Sale!

It was, however, a great night at a great venue with fabulous company - the perfect way to bring the curtain down on our Madrid Michelin experience.

ADIOS LOVELY LACRIMA

Since arriving in Madrid, we have been very fortunate to have the beautiful Princesa Lacrima of Romania as our trusted housekeeper. As we have continued on our family journey over the last two years, Lacrima has become much more than our housekeeper, someone we as a family trust implicitly, babysitter to Aimee and Liam who love and adore her, occasional resident when D&D have had a big night, a friend.

Tonight she has gone on holiday back home to her family in Romania (I am always humbled to think of the positive outlook Lacrima always projects under what must be an often lonely life away from her husband and daughters). When Lacrima returns to Madrid at the beginning of September she will not be returning to work for us.

Playing the Game Of Life (somehow appropriate) 

Last Tuesday our delightful Spanish tutor Angela met us at the Museo de Archaelogico, and we had a practical Spanish lesson. Afterwards, we went to La Gabinoteca, one of Madrid's funkiest tapas bars and had a great night. Regrettably, this was our last lesson with Angela, an intelligent and lovely lady, who for two years has maintained a remarkably brave front in the face of severe adversity (at least in one case!) in her attempts to teach the LegsyBoys the Spanish language. Thanks to Angela, Aimee is able to hold her own with any local, Buzzy is on the cusp of fluency, Dulcinea understands perfectly (although finds it a tad more difficult to converse), and Don L has been a miserable failure through no fault of Angela. You don't know how depressed I become when I see that even the neighbour's dog understands Spanish! Hopefully my lack of progress in the language is partially offset by my willingness to delve into the history and culture of this unique country. We have really enjoyed  our Angela Experience.

Lovely Angela on the left

This morning, the kids and I popped into Banneton Bakery for our morning tea. For two years Cristina, Laura and Enilda have been a coffee life support for me - they gave it their best shot (get it!), always served with a smile, and even tried to help with my Spanish - nothing was too much; there was even a tear in the eye this morning. I'm sure the bakery owner knows what an asset they are to his business. Their doors close on Sunday for the summer holidays and when they re-open we won't be able to order a Trebor Special any more. Muchas gracias chicas.

Banneton chicas - Cristina y Laura

Now all you clever people out there will have by now started thinking "what's happening?" So the hot gossip can now be unveiled as fact....THE LEGSYBOYS ARE ON THE MOVE.

On 21st August, we will be returning our faithful steed Rocinante (complete with a couple of minor flesh wounds!) to the GSK stables - but not before safely shepherds us through a two week break in San Sebastian and Asturias! Then on Friday 22nd August Dulcinea, the Aimster, Buzzy and Don L will leave Barajas AeropuertoTerminal 4 and venture due north on our Quest - LONDON, HERE WE COME.

We have the visa, we have the kids in an excellent school (St. Benedict's School, Ealing) and we have found a very nice home also in Ealing. With Dulcinea's mothership located in the next suburb of Brentford we think we've done pretty well. The address (thought you'd never ask)? 4 Heath Close, London W5 3EG, other communication details will follow as we arrange them.

It's exciting times for the LegsyBoys. We have made some lovely friends here and we genuinely love Madrid, so it will be a sad day when we depart. But, of course, there is much to look forward to as well, not least for Buzzy who is very excited that he is now legally entitled to go up to the top of Big Ben (one needs to be a British resident to do so).

For those who have visited us in our Iberian paradise - muchas gracias from the four of us, we really do appreciate it, especially as Madrid is not one of the default destinations from Australia. For those who didn't quite make it, well, don't let our absence stop you from visiting one of Europe's most elegant cities sometime soon, you won't be sorry. And to all, here's hoping we see your feet on the 'Hola' mat at Heath Close sometime soon (the good news is we have a guest room!).

Oh yeah, before I forget one other little matter, if you're in the vicinity of Melbourne over the Xmas/New Year period and wishing to have a laugh over a latte with any member of the LegsyBoys, then just say so, 'cos ...WE'RE COMING HOME FOR CHRISTMAS!!!

Adios Lacrima.....Adios Angela....Muchas gracias, abrazos, besos y los LegsyBoys te aman xxxx