ALL I SEE TURNS TO BROWN AS THE SUN BURNS THE GROUND....

Heading west we travel down the Road Of A Thousand Kasbahs which follows the Dades River valley and so named because of the seemingly endless stream of kasbahs - mostly now unoccupied -

and stop off at the Berber township of Kelaat Mgouna, renowned for their Berber khanjars (daggers).

Further on the road takes us through the Roses Valley (no prizes for what it's renowned for)

and return to Ouarzazate where we take a tour of one of the Atlas Film Studio. This has been the location for a stream of Hollywood blockbusters that includes Alexander The Great, The Jewel Of The Nile, The Last Temptation Of Christ, Lawrence Of Arabia, and Gladiator.

Can you name the movies these props were used for?

All a facade

Strong!

Papier mache pillars

Totally fake

There's nothing behind this wall

It's only a short journey to our next overnight destination, the legendary ancient fortified desert ksar of Ait Ben Haddou. This UNESCO World Heritage listed site is a maze of kasbahs (some still occupied) clinging to the impregnable hill, and has also been used for films such as Gladiator and Lawrence Of Arabia. Some of the artisan craft work is superb, and Buzzy negotiates a good price for a painting.

View from the bedroom window

Retail shopfronts

Note the top of the minaret

Stork's nest

The water really is this colour

Indigo, saffron and coffee paint

The finished article

It's time to head back over the High Atlas to Marrakech, interspersed with stops at a few scenic refreshment points and take in the magnificent panorama of these rugged mountains and snaking roads.

Cactus fruit is everywhere

We arrive back mid-afternoon, time to allow the kids to have a refreshing dip in the oasis before we walk into the imperial city's medina for dinner at the vibrant market square. We are coming back the following day and so head to the hotel for a well earned rest.

The following day we walk back to the magnificent ancient medina that dates from 1070. Surrounded by 11 km of red clay walls,

the UNESCO listed Medina of Marrakech is an outstanding example of a living historic town with its tangle of lanes, its houses, souks, fondouks, artisanal activities and traditional trades. We make our way past the towering (literally) Koutoubia Mosque (Tourist Note: we aren't allowed in, the only mosque where non-muslims are permitted is in Casablanca),

Fake palm tree hiding the communication tower

and our guide explains the significance of the minaret spire (Surprising Fact: minarets can have five or three balls on their apex. The five ball version signifies the five pillars of Islam. Morocco is a moderate Islamic country and they use three balls that signify the three main religions practiced in the country, Islam, Christianity and Judaism).

We're back at the heart of the city, the pulsating WHS listed market square of Djemaa el Fna (described by UNESCO as a 'masterpiece of world heritage'). This exuberant market place (where caravans from the east arrived to ply their wares and sell slaves) was originally the site of public executions (it translates to 'Assembly Of The Dead') has to be experienced to be believed; it's a throbbing mass of magicians, snake charmers, brightly coloured watermen, fortune-tellers, henna artists, and food stalls.

Cactus fruit seller

Imbeciles!

Surrounding the marker are a maze of alleys and souks filled with craftsmen and traders selling anything from fresh produce to leather and metal goods, carpets, well you name it. All are ready and waiting to partake in the national pastime of bargaining and the final prices rarely bears any resemblance to the starting price!

Glazed fruit

Olives

Buzzy's wearing his new Moroccan football shirt

Who'd be a donkey!

We pick up some good deals that include a new pair of camel leather sandals for LegsyBaba

and a thuya wood chess set for Buzzy. (Tourist Note: Credit where it's due, we regularly encountered traders who used the terminology "genuine fake"!).

A deal! Count your fingers Buzzy.

 The former Islamic college of the Medersa Ben Youssef (it was one of the largest theological colleges in North Africa) is a magnificent architectural building dating back to 1557 and held 900 students in its 130 rooms; it's truly beautiful.

We're taken by surprise when Aimee and Liam know about the Moroccan door knockers that depict the hand of Fatima. They are a symbol of protection and invariably have five fingers which (for Sunni Muslims) depict the Five Pillars Of Islam (it's amazing what children are taught these days in RE!).

Popping in to a bakery we get to see flat bread being baked, and it's fair to say that EH&S is not a priority!

Delivery van

A visit to a Berber apothecary and spice merchant is enlightening,

This is hemlock

The Spice Girls

Believe it or not - cactus flowers!

as is a confrontation with a snake charmer that results in a slitherer being placed around Dulcinea's neck where it promptly excretes waste - revolting!

This...

...man is...

...insane!

Someone looks a little...

...nervous!

Wholly crap, no...snake crap!

Aaah, this is more like it, although the one on the right looks a bit dodgy!

On a more light-hearted note (I think!), we were regularly asked "how many camels did we want in exchange for Aimee" (the correct answer is/was "you will never have enough" even if there were occasions when the answer warranted being "one", if you get my drift!).

Fancy going to the movies?

The latest fashion in Moroccan swimwear

Iced coffee we can do, but what's a latte?

From the rooftop of one of the nearby cafes we watched the sunset over the marketplace and we immersed ourselves in the sights and sounds of this captivating place.

Heading to evening prayer

Tomorrow, we head for the coast......