PLAZA de TOROS de LAS VENTA
Disclaimer 1: Please note that there are some images contained in this story that some may find confronting.
Disclaimer 2: This experience is mine alone, and the comments are endorsed by me alone. Dulcinea holds strong personal feelings on the subject (as do I) and, whilst respecting my decision to experience the event, wishes it known that she does not endorse the content of this report.
Plaza de Toros Las Venta |
Preparing for la corrida |
Full house |
The band didn't play 'Waltzing Matilda' |
The grand entrance |
I thought they were waving to me! |
the horses and handlers charged with the task of removing the expired beasts, and even the hombres who sweep the ring after each Faena (a 15 minute bullfight session).
Picadores ride blindfolded and heavily protected horses |
Warming up |
Snug fit! |
The first stage (tercio de varas) - el toro enters with steam coming out of his nostrils (like you see in so many cartoons) and proceeds to charge, head down, at any and every torero he can see; it's not for the faint-hearted and the wooden safety walls are there for good reason.
Once the matadore has sized el toro up, he uses a large pink backed cape to coerce the bull into passes as the crowd shout olé (they really do!), and believe it or not, it really is like watching the Paso Doble on the dance floor.
The second section, la suerte de varas, is without doubt the most riveting, and involves the picadores and banderillos. It quickly becomes apparent why the horses are blindfolded! The picadores are dressed like extras for Don Quixote, riding their steeds that have gold peto (mattress) protecting one side, and carrying a vara (lance). The picadore uses the lance to weaken the bull's neck muscles when it charges headlong into the side of the unsuspecting horse (aaah, the blindfold!). It is a very confronting sight to see half a ton of rampant beast literally broadside and lift a horse and rider into the air with the force of their charge.
Interestingly, prior to La Venta opening in 1931, the horses wore no protection, and there were generally more horses than bulls killed during the fiesta. This is followed by the banderillos who are insane and have no cape, allowing the bull to charge at them, evading at the last second as they stick brightly coloured barbed sticks (banderillas) into the bull's back. The second stage is all about wearing him down and El Toro is slowing down significantly by now.
Finally, in the third section, the matadore receives the bull alone, save for his muleta (rather small red cape) and the sword he's craftily hiding behind it. (Footnote: The whole red cape thing is pure theatrics and in no way induces el toro to become enraged and charge - bulls are colour blind and, let's face it, if half a dozen hombres were poking and prodding you with sharp implements then wouldn't that be enough to provoke you into retaliating!).
Needless to say, this is where the performance reaches its climax, as he coaxes the bull as close to himself as possible and he adopts all sorts of crazy artistic poses - you've seen the sterotypical famous posters and pics - before the final estocada is performed, when the sword pierces the bull's shoulder blades.
The crowd then judge the fight by consensus; tonight's fights all receive generous applause with only a few whistles (the last thing a matadore wants to hear are whistles and boos, or silence!). The public can also judge a bull to have been so brave as to spare its life - let me tell you, it didn't happen this night! Finally, the bull is rather unedifyingly dragged out of the arena by the horses adorned in all their finery; I guess there's no other way to do it.
I have to say that there was nothing like the amount of blood to be seen as I expected. The most overt showing is the smears on the protective horse blankets (the collateral damage to the poor caballo is, if anything, the most disturbing element f the whole performance). I was also surprised that when the end comes it is very quick - the 15 minutes of tormenting and cajoling leading up to the estocada is a totally different matter altogether. Supporters of La Corrida maintain that cruelty is not part of the equation, especially as the bulls are specifically bred for the bullring - that's a whole different discussion, and not for this report. I left with a strangely ambivalent feeling towards La Corrida. I didn't like nor dislike it, I wasn't repulsed nor was I filled with any degree of excitement. It is, to be sure, an unforgettable visual extravaganza that unfortunately leaves an animal lifeless on the ground, possibly another the worse for wear having half a ton of beef careen into its side, and occasionally (although not tonight) a torero in need of emergency medical assistance (outside the arena is a statue of Dr. Alexander Fleming, revered in Spain and by bullfighters for his discovery of penicillin, and the lives of toreros he has thus saved).
Toreros pay homage to Dr. Alexander Fleming |
As a lighter aside, Las Venta has also been used for other events. It has intermittently held concerts, notable ones being Coldplay, Radiohead, Diana Ross (a matadore would have come in handy for that one!), as well as the mighty AC/DC (their live DVD "AC/DC No Bull!" was recorded there). And in 2008, it was converted into a clay court for the Davis Cup semi final when Spain (with Rafael Nadal) performed an estocada on the USA team - a more confronting tennis audience I cannot imagine!
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