WONDERFUL, WONDERFUL COPENHAGEN HERE WE COME...

Up very early to catch the 8:30am Norwegian Air flight to the Danish capital. By 11:00am we have landed, caught the train to Central Station, and walked to the Hotel Ansgar. It's in the Vesterbro area, once a run down district and now heaving under the weight of trendy cafes and restaurants. When one walks out of the station it's difficult not to see Tivoli Gardens, a massive amusement park and pleasure garden smack in the middle of the city. Needless to say, this is our destination for the afternoon.

 Tivoli is the 2nd oldest theme park in the world, dating back to 1843 (interestingly, the oldest is 30 minutes away on the outskirts of the city at Dyrehavsbakken - the Danes clearly like their swings). It's most famous for it's wooden roller coaster; it's 100 years old this year and has been fully renovated. Needless to say, we jump on board straight away and it's great fun.

100 year old wooden rollercoaster - they don't make 'em like this anymore

Attending an amusement park is the only time I wish for Buzzy to grow up as quickly as possible, well at least to 140cm. This is the universal minimum height requirement to go unattended on most of the death defying rides, and right now he needs a grown up to accompany him. That spells bad news for Dulcinea and me, and means that we have to go on the newest ride 'Aquila', a giant swing and spinner shaped like an eagle with 4G centrifugal power - and nowhere to vomit!

Aquila - OMG!

Tivoli is also home to the world's tallest carousel, Star Flyer. For anyone who suffers from vertigo (i.e. ME!) being spun around almost horizontally 80 metres in the air is genuinely terrifying. Apparently there's a great view to be had of the city, but it's hard to see it when your eyes are tightly shut; when I do open my eyes, I notice that I'm holding the flimsy chains so tightly my knuckles have turned white whilst the 8yo kid beside me has his arms in the air, is kicking his legs and has a beaming smile.

Himmelskibet - Star Flyer

Going up.....

Hanging on for grim life

....coming down (thank God!)

 

More to my liking was The Flying Trunk, an equivalent to Disneyland's Small World ride, except it focuses on the wonderful stories of Copenhagen's favourite son, Hans Christian Andersen. The whole venue is fantastic, and also serves as a park, has numerous restaurants and an entertainment complex.

The Little Mermaid in The Flying Trunk

I never realised she was so muscly

Princess & The Pea

The only downside of our visit, and an issue that dogged us the whole time we were in Copenhagen, was the customer service. Customer focus is zero and staff show absolutely no interest in serving. After waiting 25 minutes for 4 drinks, a couple of hot dogs and fries from a takeaway stall, we discover (without apology!) that they have forgotten our order. The lady next to us apologises profusely - she's Danish and warns us not to expect to see any improvement! Travel Warning: Copenhagen customer service is uniformly PITIFUL.

We eventually depart looking for a dinner venue. Wandering the streets of Vesterbro, one gets the 'alternative' vibe of the area, and indeed the whole city is very 'green', just like Stockholm. We ultimately settle for a nice looking bistro where we have a pleasant meal, in spite of the appalling service. There has clearly been a LOT of money spent on venues in the area and it's such a shame to devalue the experience by a lack of attention to detail; such is life I guess.

Vesterbro neighbourhood......

The Hotel Ansgar is pretty good, a 2 minute walk to the station, fine for 2 adults and 2 kids, in need of a refurbishment, but comfortable. Best of all, they include an excellent breakfast in the room rate so we head off the next morning with full stomachs. It's a 15 minute bus ride to what is the undisputed symbol of Copenhagen, the iconic Den Lille Havfrue, "The Little Mermaid" statue. Based on what is arguably Andersen's most famous fairy tale, the little statue has been sitting on the harbourside rock since 1913 (101 years - amazing).

Den Lille Havfue.....

....with Prince Charming

 From there we stroll through the streets to King's Gardens. Here we gaze upon Rosenborg Castle and also find a monument to HCA - he was much loved during his lifetime and the statue captures the warmth he apparently exuded.

Rosenborg Castle

Hans Christian Andersen immortalised

....with a couple of adoring fans

From here it's a short stroll to another of Copenhagen's most famous locales - Nyhavn. The canal was dug in 1673 by Swedish prisoners of war, and today the colourful 17th century buildings on both sides serve as one of the city's main entertainment areas, and the canal harbours many historical wooden ships.

Picture perfect

Stunning Nyhavn

 The oldest house, #9, dates back to 1661, and HCA lived at #20. Interestingly, and unlike so many writers and artists, Andersen was a much loved and celebrated person during his lifetime, and was quite well off - he even received an annual stipend by the Danish government as a "national Treasure". He died when he fell out of bed, aged 70.

Circa 1661 - #9 Nyhavn

The House of Hans - #20 Nyhavn

Copenhagen has once again awoken Aimee and Liam's interest in Andersen's fairy tales once again (the trip is worth it for this reason alone) and we manage to pick up a bundle of storybooks to share with them - The Emperor's New Clothes, Ugly Duckling, Prince & The Pea, The Nightingale, Flying Trunk etc etc.

Tell me another story

We shouldn't have been surprised, but an undoubted "highlight" of our Nyhavn lunch is discovering that our restaurant of choice, Hereford House, refuses to supply tap water! Just when we think that's an all-time low, Aimee rejects her hot chocolate - an event as common as Moses parting the Red Sea. And whilst the barista clearly has no idea whatsoever as to what makes a passable let alone decent latte, it must be said that the shrimp sandwich was excellent.

Hereford House latte - undrinkable

And so we leave beautiful Nyhavn and board the 11A bus bound for....good question, it's going the wrong way!!!!!