Tuesday 9 April 2013

I'M YOUR VENICE, I'M YOUR FIRE, YOUR DESIRE...

The Bridge Of Sighs
After a lot of travel the previous day, we arise late to what is a very wet day, for numerous reasons as it turns out.We only have one firm booking in Venice and that's the Secret Tour (in English) of the Palazzo Ducale (Doge's Palace) at 11.45am. Carlo's 4 minute walk to St. Mark's Square (Piazza San Marco) turns out to be about 15 as we take a few wrong turns, before we are confronted by a sea of water.

Thought I was kidding didn't you!
Entry to the Basilica de San Marco


High tide at the Piazza San Marco
 If it was the canal then that would be fine, but this happens to be the Piazza and all the alleyways around it; shops and cafes are flooded and there are hundreds of people walking around on temporary boardwalks. My intial thought was that we'd slept through heavy overnight rain but no, this is now the daily ritual as the tide comes in - VENICE IS SINKING (scaremongers can substitute 'the sea is rising')! It's easy to spot the Venetians in the crowd - they're the ones in gumboots.



....and inside
Palazzo Ducale - outside




 We make it just in time. The palace is, quite simply, awesome and the vista superb even in the rain. The secret tour (limited to 20 per group)  takes you into the area of the palace not open to the general public, including the jails and access to walking across the fabled Bridge Of Sighs (it's the only way to access it). It was brilliant, expertly conducted, and full of insightful anecdotes and historical details (the open mouthed secret accusation boxes were a revelation!); los ninos both loved it - Liam was used as a model to display torture techniques (I took notes!) and also did a merry jig over the beauiful floor tiles to the amusement of all (including the tour guide), whilst the Aimster was infatuated by the stories about - CASANOVA! Anyone visiting (or who has) the city will go to the Doge's Palace; I strongly recommend that you partake of the Secret Tour (Travel Tip: the queue to get into the palace, let alone theSecret Tour was extremely long and gets ridiculously long from April onwards. Buy your ticket online at www.tickitaly.com who will email you a voucher. When you arrive just ignore the queue, walk into the booking office and exchange your voucher for your tickets - easy).

Secret accusation mouth - use it if you dare!
Gold leafed stairwells
Grand meeting rooom
Entry to the Bridge of Sighs
Next door is the spectaularly domed Basilica de San Marco (St Mark's Basilica). As the queues to get in are extraordinarily long (fascinating how even the non-religious are drawn to such wonderful houses of worship), it is worth booking a time online at www.basilicasanmarco.it This is essential from April onwards and is free to get in. It costs 5 euro to go upstairs to the museum; it's money well spent as there are some amazing artefacts dating back 1,000 years as well as the famous Triumphal Quadriga (Four Horses of St Mark's) - the ones outside on the balcony are, of course, facsimiles. The view over Piazza San Marco from the balcony is wonderful and it's easy to picture what it is like at low tide in the middle of summer with thousands of people mingling.


Basilica de San Marco
Basilica, clock tower & piazza


Triumphal Quadriga
A horse's view of the piazza
It must be fabulous in summer
 We take a slow stroll around Procuratie Nuove of the Piazza looking in all the shops that carry a 20% markup versus anywhere else in Venice, and we make our way to a special treat to end the day - afternoon tea at Caffe Florian. It is grandly ornate and just happens to be the oldest continuously operating cafe in the world, having been established in 1720. There was a short wait to get in (remeber that we weren't here in high season!) but it was worth it. We had a delightful afternoon tea, especially los ninos who partook of various delicacies. Luckily I just happened to have 2nd mortgage documents on hand to execute when the time came to pay - it may not be to you, but 9 euro for a cup of average tasting coffee (and extra 3 euro for cream!) is a tad over the top - but it was a GREAT coffee in Venice! Carlo later told us that the secret is to go early evening, order one coffee and sit around listening to the string quartet!

Up for the challenge
Procuratie Nuove


Caffe Florian - Est. 1720



Inside Florian - magnificent
Hmmm, what to have!


The ransom note!


.....but how good is that!

The LegsyBoys loving Venezia
We completed our day by getting totally lost trying to find a supermarket, then retiring to the apartment for a homecooked meal and a game of Melbourne Memory - WHICH I WON! it's waterlogged, crowded and very chilly, but we're in love with Venice.

 Photo Gallery For The Day:















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