QUESTS GALORE.....
Valencia is a city of contrasts, a place for
perfect summer relaxation, curiously
run down and yet within the
Old Town some
wonderful sights and experiences.
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Calamares Playa, ice cold Coke Light, a great book and shade - PERFECTO! |
There are
beautifully maintained haciendas adorned with distinctive
Spanish wrought iron balconies, and narrow side streets bristle with cafes.
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You WILL like our food...and it was actually very nice )no, really it was!) |
There are two main markets, the first offering a more contemporary range of food stalls and cafes,
but the second is a jewel. The current
Valencia Central Market was erected in
1915 but there has been a market here since the
14th century. It throbs with activity and lusciously fresh produce from the usual to the unexpected - plenty of
offal on hand amongst the vegies and fruit, and more
caracoles (snails) than Don L has ever seen - where's the
garlic butter when you need it!
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They're all still alive!!! |
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God knows what it is... |
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...I have no idea what it is! |
Located on the bustling
Plaza del Reina,
Valencia Cathedral was constructed in
1238 and if
King Arthur had known what is held here then he'd have pointed
Concord in the direction of Valencia to fulfill his
elusive quest. Although more than one city claims to possess this relic, it's generally regarded that this is the resting place of the
Holy Grail, the very
chalice used at the
Last Supper. The good news is that the cathedral roof is still intact after our visit!
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The Holy Grail |
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Priceless - both of them. |
Luckily, not all the hotel staff treated us with disdain, and we were given some helpful hints on our quest to find the
true heart and soul of Valencia -
paella - for this is the city of its creation. We walk into the Old Town and down some suitably 'local' alleys before finding our destination.
Our
Paella Valenciana takes about
25 minutes to cook and it is, in a word,
DELICIOUS. Served in a
searing iron caldero it's jammed full of
vegetables, chicken and rice (duh), and having ticked the paella box we decide that on our last day we should try the popular
seafood variant of this fabulous dish.
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Delish!!! |
On our last day at breakfast, we manage to consume copious quantities of
freshly squeezed zuma (juice) from another of the city's great gifts to the world, the
Valencia Orange, then get in a few minutes of
exercise in the park and a
quick paddle before heading to the beach.
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Good for the hammies.... |
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.....should've been a cowby |
The team hit the sand whilst Don L chooses our dining spot, and the winner is.......
Cafe Zaragoza. Herein lies perhaps the
greatest Manuel Moment we have ever experienced in this beautiful country.......
As la familia pack themselves up from sunbaking and swimming, Don L beckons a waiter and places the lunch order.....
dos Fanta Naranja (2 Fanta Oranges), dos copas de vino blanco (2 glasses of white wine), Paella Marinara (you can work that one out), Patatas Bravas, and alitas de pollo a la barbacoa (BBQ chicken wings) POR FAVOR (!!) and we settle in for the 25 minute wait. Time's up and the patatas and alitas have arrived,
no sign of our paella. A polite enquiry (in both Spanish and English) to
"our" waiter is ignored and in the meantime we order
2 more glasses of wine from a different (male) waiter.
Forty five minutes and "our" waiter walks past with
three calderos of paella, looks at us and says
"NOT YOURS!" and places them at a table that has been occupied for only 10 minutes. Meanwhile, a (female) drinks waitress advises us that
we can only have one glass of white wine as they've run out of white wine (no, seriously) and the concept of popping over the road to the supermarket to get more hasn't occurred to them. She offers (and we accept) a
glass of rose instead which arrives 10 minutes later. Dulcinea has a sip (not too baad) and then the
original drinks waiter confiscates the glass thinking it's the wrong order (you still with me!). We finally retrieve the partially consumed rose, not before further calderos pass us, none for us.
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The infamous glass of rose.... |
After
70 minutes, Don L has had enough, grabs another waiter (who spoke perfect English) and proceeded to
chew him a new backside...
"it's coming, it's coming"....and after
80 minutes so it did,
stone cold caldero filled with paella that was so cold it had
coagulated.
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Would you eat this?? |
This may shock you, but
we paid the bill. Dulcinea (bless her) entered the cafe and proceeded to take a
photograph(s) of "our" waiter and was
followed out by the manager demanding the camera so that he could
erase the photo(s) - needless to say this didn't happen.
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Prat Of The Year |
"I shall call the police" was rebuffed by the
Australian Boadicea with
"go ahead"....and so he did! As we departed, other diners congratulated us on our actions as they too had been having the
dining experience from hell. The manager
followed us out onto the boardwalk and
'called' the police again (he could have shouted to them as the police station was only 100 metres up the boardwalk), insisting that we wait for them to arrive. And so, with clearly nervous children in tow (Buzzy was terrified we were about to be arrested), Don L and the
Firebrand strolled off, past the police station (!!) to continue on another quest. When eating at the beachside bistros, nobody expects perfection, nor do you expect it to be cheap. Over 4 different days, we were treated respectfully and served reasonable to good food, until
Cafe Zaragoza.
DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, EVER GO THERE!
Adjacent to the beach was Valencia's only other
5-star hotel, Las Arenas.
In need of a calming elixir, we decided on testing it out, and it lived right up to its rating, providing us with exceptionally friendly service.
Here too was a place for Don L to continue his
one true quest, and the
strong skinny latte was duly ordered; here's the result.......
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....the Quest continues..... |
Walking back along the boardwalk, we watched a
Futevolei tournament, basically
beach volleyball without using hands. The participants were very skilled, best of all we managed to score a few bottles of the sponsor's product.
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...nice.... |
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Searching for a bargain |
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Aha - the genuine plastic shark tooth for only 1 euro! |
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Valencia boardwalking |
We've enjoyed Valencia, and not even our Manuel Moment could detract from things (indeed, hindsight makes light of it). Back in Madrid, we attend the consulate to find that we've been approved, so we're Poms again and the window for visitors has been extended to
31st January 2017!
We decide to try one of Madrid's newest culinary ventures,
Platea. Once a
picture theatre (silent movies are shown on the screen), it is now a
multi-storied restaurant and night club, with a host of
tapas bars. Best of all, it's the brainchild of several of
Madrid's finest Michelin chefs including
Paco Roncero and
Ramon Freixa. The food is just delicious and reasonably priced, so should you get a chance then don't miss it (and it's right around the corner from the relocated
Streetxo).
Before flying out there's time for the kids to have a sleepover with some of their old friends, Dulcinea to do some more bargain hunting and Don L to again have a delightful fusion lunch with the
belleza pelirroja de Irlanda.
We're
legal aliens in the UK again, and in doing so got to again experience one of the planet's truly great countries. Hope you had a good summer holiday too.